The finest aroma
The most expensive portion of “maguro” (tuna) is the block of “harakami”, the extra fatty part from the belly including special cuts of “otoro” (extremely fatty parts of tuna) called “jabara” and “shimofuri”. While high-class sushi restaurants in Ginza compete to get this precious “harakami”, the master of Kizushi at Nihonbashi Ningyo-cho, Mr. Kazuhiro Yui, goes for the meat at the back of maguro.
“To me maguro is red meat rather than otoro, especially the red lean meat taken from the back is more delicious. True, otoro has sweet fat but not that rich flavor or the hint of sourness unique to red meat. And the aroma…only the meat form the back has that aroma of maguro breezing through the nose.”
This day the master purchased back meat of 133kg maguro from Ohma in Aomori Prefecture with much fat content in the midst of the season.
“Besides red meat, I’d also recommend ‘chutoro’ (medium fatty meat) from the back. The fat is evenly distributed so you can enjoy both the sweetness of fat and the rich flavor of red meat. Especially the area called ‘chiai-gishi’ (portion near red dark meat) has excellent aroma. It must be irresistible for maguro lovers.”