“The World of Edomae Sushi”October⑥Maguro(Tuna)


Rich and mellow

This day the master of Ginza Sushi Suzuki, Mr. Takahisa Suzuki, had a block of “harakami” (extra fatty part on the abdomen near the gills).

“This is ‘harakami’ of a 165 kilo ‘maguro’ (tuna). I personally believe about 150 kilos is the best as for both taste and aroma. So this one is almost the ideal size.”

Maguro is a migratory fish, which moves up north following blue-skinned fish such as “iwashi” (sardine) and reaches the Tsugaru Strait in the autumn. The taste of the meat then changes by feeding on “surumeika” (Japanese flying squid) there.

“The quality of the fat also changes as well as the taste. I can feel the change by the touch of a finger. Unlike summer maguro, the fat melts easily by the heat of the hand so I am very careful when handling otoro,” says Mr. Suzuki as he cautiously slices the best part of otoro, “sunazuri”, also called “jabara” meaning the belly of the snake from the way it looks with layers of white tendons and the flesh.

“White tendons of high quality maguro like this one should not be disturbing at all in the mouth, so I wouldn’t remove them when making nigiri.”

The natural flavor of maguro and a faint aroma of squid viscera make rich and mellow taste to cover the tongue together with melting fat.