The sweet experience only for this season
“Buri” (yellowtail) has different names for each stages of growth so it is called “shusse-uo” which means “fish that climb up the ladder”. Those about 20cm are called “wakashi”, 40cm “inada”, 60cm “warasa”, and especially bigger ones above 1m are called “buri” at fish markets in Tokyo.
Fully-grown buri swims up north along the coast of Japan from spring to summer and reaches Hokkaido in September to October. Only those caught by set net off the coast of the Shakotan Peninsula may be called the “tenjo-buri”, a very popular sushi ingredient. The master of Sushi Suzuki at Ginza, Mr. Takahisa Suzuki, likes to include this tenjo-buri in his course of sushi.
“Autumn buri is very delicious in the way different from winter buri. Carries moderate fat and it’s sweet, so goes very well with our sushi rice. I slice them thin for nigiri because the meat is a little firm.”
Three thin slices from the belly of buri, one over another, make one piece of nigiri sushi. It is soft but also nicely firm, and the sour rice enhances the sweetness of the fat.