Unsweetened sushi rice brings out the sweetness of the fat
“I’m not so concerned in the way how ‘maguro’ (tuna) is caught nor aging them,” says Mr. Satoshi Ichijo, the master of Sushi Ichijo at Higashi- Nihonbashi.
“Maguro that changed color by aging doesn’t fascinate me. Appearance is also part of the taste.”
Mr. Ichijo chose “hon-maguro” (bluefin tuna) from Shimoda in Shizuoka prefecture, which weighs 71 kilos. The size is a little small but contains enough fat.
“The point is whether it matches our sushi rice. I choose one with soft meat and fine texture. I also look at the skin. If the blocks of maguro were the same size, the one with thinner skin tastes better.”
He takes a piece of otoro with white lines of fat called “jabara” (snake’s belly, from the way it looks) for nigiri. Sushi rice flavored with just red vinegar and salt without using sugar brings out the sweetness of the fat to its fullest.